![]() Do not insert fingers in the grip ring inside the fitting. The fitting and tubing should be free of damage, foreign object and marks on the outside diameter. Make sure that the fitting and tube are free from defects. Press the release with disconnect clip to remove tubing. The refrigeration system must be isolated, or pumped down before disconnecting. Double check through window on fitting.Use prep tool (sold separately) to determine depth.Compatible with major refrigerants, including R410A and R22.Sight window for connection verification.Complete system with all sizes and configurations.Flame-free: no flaring or brazing needed.Flame-free fittings for connecting refrigerant lines.The unique, leak-proof double O-rings sealing design creates a permanent high pressure gas seal that prevents connection leaks caused by galling, vibration, pulsation and extreme temperature changes. With no flaring or brazing involved, refrigerant lines can be securely and safely connected by PRO-Fit Quick Connect in various environments. PRO-Fit Quick Connect push-to-connect refrigerant fittings quickly connect copper and aluminum linesets for mini-split and unitary HVAC units. Well, a leak test first with vacuum to make sure I didn't screw it up too bad.RectorSeal 87043 PRO-Fit 3/8" Quick Connect Service Valve Push-to-Connect Refrigerant Fittings Major tasks left are running the refrigerant lines, and the power wires. I also set the rivnuts for the interior/exterior mountings, and got the shelf ready to go in. The small black box is the 6uF cap for the evap fan. Wiring is done on the inside unit as well I used 2 of the same waterproof 3 wire connectors here. They clamp to tabs on the pan, and I put rubber for chafe and heat transfer resistance. I got the fittings soldered onto the evap lines. Since the fan condenser fan only needs one speed (high), and will always run with the compressor, I just ran three wires and a waterproof connector for easy removal. The starter cap is mounted and the harness complete. The motor still has a drain hole at the bottom, but having these two seals should reduce the risk of crap getting washed into the bearings. I also glued a seal to the output side of the condenser fan. I glued a cap over the unused motor end/bearing. Its 70% zinc, and should extend their life under a vehicle. I opted to hit all the copper lines with some cold galvanizing spray. Still waiting on some small ID pipe insulation. I've also come across this flexible line product which might be applicable to these kinds of installs, 36" and 72" lengths available, it could be part of a solution to get through some of the difficult areas: ![]() Those quick connect couplings look pretty cool, I will need to look into those some more. If the teeth line up with the thread, the valve will push right on, if they dont 'interlock' the collar will not push down then you pretty much have to fiddle to locate. As you push the valve on, the segments are squeezed together to grip the flare thread. Sticker on the side lists it as 8.78A with a LRA (Locked Rotor Amps) of 18A There are floating segments with 'teeth' in the fitting that align with the flare thread. I haven't yet put it on my Kill-A-Watt to try to measure startup current, but I imagine it won't be too bad compared to conventional compressors. It is darn quiet if you care about that sort of thing, I myself prefer the white noise when sleeping so it's not as a big factor to me, but it will be nice during the day when taking a phone call. They are suitable for joining refrigerant lines in seconds after cutting the line, deburring the ends and push to connect. I have been testing one as an actual window unit, and I've been impressed so far. Quick Connect Service Valve PRO-Fit Quick Connect fittings are designed PRO-Fit Quick Connect fittings are designed to connect refrigerant lines without an open flame, brazing or swaging. It's also an inverter unit so it should be both pretty efficient, and run with variable speed rather than simply on/off which should mean less power draw without the compressor kicking on/off repeatedly. Since it's already almost a split unit it should be a bit easier with regard to dealing with the fans.
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